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Guides

Metals & finishes

The metal sets the colour of the ring, how it wears, and whether it can be resized later. The finish decides how it catches the light.

Gold

Pure gold is too soft for a ring, so it is mixed with other metals. The carat number tells you how much gold is in it.

Carat Gold content Character
9ct 37.5% Hard-wearing and the most affordable; paler in colour.
14ct 58.5% A good balance of colour and strength.
18ct 75% Rich colour; the classic choice for fine jewellery.
22ct 91.6% Deep yellow and soft; best for plain bands.

Yellow gold is gold at its warmest. Rose gold has more copper, giving it a pink tone. White gold is mixed with paler metals and usually plated with rhodium for a bright white surface; the plating wears with time and can be renewed. We also offer 18ct white gold unplated, which is a soft greyish white and never needs re-plating.

Platinum

Naturally white, heavy and dense. Platinum does not wear away when it is scratched; the metal is moved rather than lost, and it gradually takes on a soft sheen that can be polished back. It holds stones securely and is a natural choice for diamonds.

Palladium

A white metal from the same family as platinum, lighter on the finger and usually less expensive.

Modern metals

Titanium is very light and strong. Tungsten carbide is extremely hard and resists scratches, but it can crack under a sharp knock. Tantalum is dense and dark grey. Black zirconium has a hard black surface. Damascus steel shows a flowing pattern from layers of steel. These metals are hard to resize or cannot be resized at all, so get the size right first.

Finishes

  • High polish: a mirror surface that reflects everything around it.
  • Brushed: fine parallel lines that soften reflections and hide small marks.
  • Satin: a smooth, low shine between polished and brushed.
  • Hammered: small dents across the surface that catch the light like water.
  • Sandblasted: a fine matte surface, almost like frosted glass.
  • Florentine: a cross-hatched texture, traditional in Italian goldsmithing.

Textured finishes soften over years of wear and can be renewed when the ring comes back to us for care.

Hallmarking

In the UK, rings over a certain weight must be tested and hallmarked by an Assay Office before they are sold. The hallmark is a small stamp inside the band that guarantees the metal is what we say it is. Every ring we make is hallmarked where the law requires it.

See every metal in the light

Switch metals and finishes in the Studio and turn the ring to see how each one reflects.

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